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  Tempting Mangalore
By Vasundhra Sharma

Mangalore has been always known for its temples and beaches and definitely for its sumptuous array of sea food. It is a land of numerous beaches, temples, educational institutes, cultures, languages, amicable people and amazing food. The city is definitely urban with a growing number of Malls, junk food outlets, pubs, discs… But when it comes to tradition and culture, there is no other city to beat this one.

Being a coastal city the choices of sea food are abundant. The staple food here, available in most establishments, is the Fish Curry Meal. Narayana is a good restaurant where several kinds of fish are available and is reputed to be one of the oldest and possibly the smallest hotel around. This place serves only fish curry and rice with a variety of fried fish to choose from. A plate of fish curry rice contains red boiled rice, fish curry (made mostly out of sardines in coconut based gravy) a vegetable curry of the day (mostly Tendli/Gherkin or pumpkin) and a little pickle. After your meal has been served a server comes with a large plate of fried fish which has Anjal fry (popularly called King Fish or Seer Fish), Kane Fry (Lady Fish), Bangude Fry (Mackerel) and Pomfret Fry. It's a very simple deep fried fish that is dipped in a paste made of red-chilli powder and salt (of course Narayana adds some extra punch to it with a secret ingredient). The Anjal Fish has very few bones which makes it easier to eat.

During the course of the meal you will be given a small glass of spicy Majige (buttermilk churned with green chillies and salt) to complete a perfect meal. Be prepared to over-eat here. Fish is available in most restaurants as standard menu items like Rawa fry, Masala Fry, Naked Fry. King fish is considered a luxury whilst Mackerel is a staple. For red-meat lovers, just a little further ahead from Narayana you can find a Biryani outlet called Bombay Lucky that serves Kerala style Biryani. Mutton and Chicken dishes like Liver Fry, Mutton Chops, Chicken Fry and some egg varieties are also available. Besides Biryani, they serve Rice Roti, (akki roti) and Kerala Parota. Kori Roti, a Mangalorean delicacy, is crispy dry bread made of rice flakes. This is served with traditional chicken curry made with a coconut base. The Roti is broken into small pieces and the curry is poured on it.

 

Neer Dosa is made of a watery rice batter poured on to a tava, with a little grated coconut. This is served with coconut milk or Ravo (sweet coconut;-grated coconut added to melt Jaggery and sprinkled with cardamom powder). Red coconut chutney, made of coconut and red chillies is also an accompaniment. Pathrode is made of Colocasia leaves that are spread on one side with a batter made of rice, chana dal and spices. The leaves are stacked one on top of the other and filled with coconut masala, rolled and steamed. Coconut oil is smeared on it before serving.

 

Chicken Sukka is another traditional dish. The chicken is first cooked with a paste made of fennel seeds, coriander seeds, red chillies, black pepper and tamarind juice. Then a dry coarse paste is made of coconut, garlic and cumin seeds. The chicken is then cooked in this paste without adding water, and garnished with curry leaves. Appam/Neer Dosa with Chicken Kundapuri is a great combo to try here. Appam is made of fermented rice batter, poured in a deepfrying pan, to get its bowl-like shape. It's crisp at the edges and thick in the center. Chicken Kundapuri is a very simple, but delectable dish, the chicken is cooked with, garam masala, chilli powder and grated coconut.

 

To conclude, a culinary visit to Mangalore will be well worth the time spent!

 
 
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