Mangalore has been always known for its
temples and beaches and definitely for its sumptuous array of sea food. It is a land of
numerous beaches, temples, educational institutes,
cultures, languages, amicable people and amazing
food. The city is definitely urban with a growing number
of Malls, junk food outlets, pubs, discs… But when it comes to tradition and culture, there is no other city
to beat this one.
Being a coastal city the choices of sea food are
abundant. The staple food here, available in most
establishments, is the Fish Curry Meal. Narayana is a
good restaurant where several kinds of fish are
available and is reputed to be one of the oldest and possibly the smallest hotel around. This place serves
only fish curry and rice with a variety of fried fish to
choose from. A plate of fish curry rice contains red
boiled rice, fish curry (made mostly out of sardines in
coconut based gravy) a vegetable curry of the day
(mostly Tendli/Gherkin or pumpkin) and a little pickle.
After your meal has been served a server comes with a
large plate of fried fish which has Anjal fry (popularly
called King Fish or Seer Fish), Kane Fry (Lady Fish),
Bangude Fry (Mackerel) and Pomfret Fry. It's a very
simple deep fried fish that is dipped in a paste made of
red-chilli powder and salt (of course Narayana adds
some extra punch to it with a secret ingredient). The
Anjal Fish has very few bones which makes it easier to
eat.
During the course of the meal you will be given a
small glass of spicy Majige (buttermilk churned with
green chillies and salt) to complete a perfect meal. Be
prepared to over-eat here. Fish is available in most
restaurants as standard menu items like Rawa fry,
Masala Fry, Naked Fry. King fish is considered a luxury
whilst Mackerel is a staple. For red-meat lovers, just a
little further ahead from Narayana you can find a
Biryani outlet called Bombay Lucky that serves Kerala
style Biryani. Mutton and Chicken dishes like Liver Fry,
Mutton Chops, Chicken Fry and some egg varieties are
also available. Besides Biryani, they serve Rice Roti, (akki
roti) and Kerala Parota. Kori Roti, a Mangalorean
delicacy, is crispy dry bread made of rice flakes. This is
served with traditional chicken curry made with a
coconut base. The Roti is broken into small pieces and
the curry is poured on it.
Neer Dosa is made of a watery rice batter poured on
to a tava, with a little grated coconut. This is served with
coconut milk or Ravo (sweet coconut;-grated coconut
added to melt Jaggery and sprinkled with cardamom
powder). Red coconut chutney, made of coconut and red
chillies is also an accompaniment. Pathrode is made of
Colocasia leaves that are spread on one side with a
batter made of rice, chana dal and spices. The leaves are
stacked one on top of the other and filled with coconut
masala, rolled and steamed. Coconut oil is smeared on it
before serving.
Chicken Sukka is another traditional dish. The
chicken is first cooked with a paste made of fennel
seeds, coriander seeds, red chillies, black pepper and
tamarind juice. Then a dry coarse paste is made of
coconut, garlic and cumin seeds. The chicken is then
cooked in this paste without adding water, and
garnished with curry leaves. Appam/Neer Dosa with
Chicken Kundapuri is a great combo to try here. Appam
is made of fermented rice batter, poured in a deepfrying
pan, to get its bowl-like shape. It's crisp at the
edges and thick in the center. Chicken Kundapuri is a
very simple, but delectable dish, the chicken is cooked
with, garam masala, chilli powder and grated coconut.
To conclude, a culinary visit to Mangalore will be
well worth the time spent!
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